City News: Phil McKendall from La Prima Caffe

From the City News series of interviews...

Phil McKendall is no novice when it comes to the grueling hours it takes to run an 80-hour a week, nose-to-the-grindstone operation as a restaurateur. Before setting sights on the Broadway area of Providence, he made his way through some of the most exclusive kitchens in downtown.

But for the past five years, with the award-winning La Prima Caffe as his home base, Phil has quickly become an active neighbor in a thriving, upbeat Broadway Avenue business district. With an eye for 100% excellence, he talks to City News about the inner workings of his “small big business.”

How long have you been in business?

I’ve been in the restaurant business for 25 years. My older brother is a chef, graduated from Johnson and Wales in 1978. We opened up a family business called The Admiral’s Galley and I worked there in high school. When my brother retired, he took a job for the State, and I ran my own catering business after that called North End catering. I ran that for about 10 years in the 90s then I opened up La Prima in downtown on 96 Fountain Street for about 2 years.

I had to shelf La Prima from 1996 to 2001 while I became an executive chef for the Civic Center for 2 years then a captain at Capriccio’s after that. In November 2001, I opened up La Prima on Broadway.

What do you like most about doing business in this neighborhood? Why did you decide to set up shop on Broadway?

I fell in love with the location. I thought it was a nice scenic hot spot. I knew that it was going to be busy during the day. Nights would take some work. We started with an 18-seat restaurant and expanded to 40.

Is there a difference from when you were located downtown?

I think I was ahead of the curve. Back then it was kind of sparse downtown. You gotta’ really bring enough to survive. You have to be a small big business.

Okay so what do you specialize in?

We specialize in regional, continental Italian cuisine – anything from great sandwiches to hot and cold Tuscan salads, real nice pasta dishes – the whole gamut, the whole Italian experience.

In 2003, we were voted Best Pasta Fagolie by RI Monthly’s Best of.

What’s a fagolie?

It’s a pasta and bean dish.

And your personal favorites?

The tortellini di filippo with pink alfredo sauce. Nana’s meatballs. And I like the chicken franchaise and the fried calamari.

Were you always a good chef?

I thought I was very good until I started working at Capriccio’s! There are some big influences in my career – my brother Stephen, master chef Nino D’Orso, and Vincenzo Iemmo, the owner of Capriccio’s.

What makes your caffe unique?

It’s a blend of old time recipes and jazzy new flavors. It’s true authentic Italian food. I’m a purist in that way. And we mix in a jazzy atmosphere. I think it’s a good match. It makes for a good environment. Most people really enjoy it. I also feature different artists on the wall. We do art openings every couple of months.

What’s your philosophy as a business owner and chef?

You really never stop learning, but with a good foundation you really can expand. You commit everyday to being excellent all the time. As one of my (friends) used to say ‘you’re only as good as the last plate you serve.’ The everyday experience has to be 100% all good all the time.

It’s also a family effort. If everybody is working hard together, you usually get good results.

Since you’ve opened on Broadway five years ago, describe some of the changes you’ve seen in the neighborhood.

I’ve been an active neighbor. We want to improve the area and the neighborhood, not just for myself but for my customers as well so I stay active. With the help of Councilman Lombardi, Representative Costantino, at the time Senator Caprio, Representative Jabour, and of course Mayor Cicilline, we signed a petition to get a $200,000 seed grant for historic lighting on Broadway. I’ve also planted about 80 trees on the street and initiated a project for the Steel Yard cans to be placed on Broadway. So, I’ve been busy!

Why do you think these things are important?

Because the better the neighborhood gets, the better it is for the business owners, our customers, and the neighbors. I want it to be brighter and safer for everyone. Can you imagine when the historic lighting comes here; you’ll get to see how beautiful Broadway really is. We have some of the most beautiful houses in this street.

Where do you see the future of this neighborhood and your business going?

I’d be looking to grow in the future. I think Broadway’s future is very bright. Hopefully I can stay here for a long time.

To see Phil in action (and if you visit La Prima, you’ll probably be greeted by him at the front counter) the restaurant is located at 205 Broadway Avenue, or go to www.laprimacaffe.com.